OpalMineralloidAustralia

Opal: A Unique Play of Colour

Opal buying and care guide. How to judge play-of-color and pattern, from black to fire and Welo, and how to care for a fragile stone. Learn value.

History

For thousands of years, opals have been mined and treasured. The ancient Romans believed that opals were the most precious and powerful of all gems, because they encompassed the colours of all other gems. They are the traditional birthstone for October and are associated with a rich body of folklore, considered by some to be both lucky and unlucky stones to wear, a superstition traced to Sir Walter Scott's 1829 novel Anne of Geierstein, after which European opal sales reportedly fell by half within a year. Some scholars, however, believe that many ancient references to opal may actually have been to other gems, such as the iridescent iris agate. In the 1890s, when Australia's mines began producing opals commercially, they quickly became the world's primary source for this October birthstone.

Mineral Origins

Opal is an amorphous form of silica. It is chemically similar to quartz but contains between 3% and 21% water within its mineral structure, with gem-grade opals usually having a water content of 6% to 10%. Opals are formed in sedimentary rocks when water, rich in dissolved silicates, enters a cavity and deposits the silicates as microscopic spheres. When these spheres are uniform in size and neatly stacked, they diffract light, resulting in the phenomenon known as play of color, which is a hallmark of precious opals. In contrast, common opals form when these spheres are random in size, shape, and arrangement, and do not exhibit play of color.

The 4 C's

Like other gemstones, opals are evaluated based on the 4Cs: colour, clarity, cut, and carat weight. However, some unique factors also come into play.

Colour

Colour is the most important factor when evaluating an opal's value. The more colours that are present, the more valuable the opal is. Blues and greens are the most common colours, whereas warm colours like yellow, orange, pink, and red are less common and, therefore, more valuable. Violet and purple are the least common, but they don't impact value as much as a hot red or orange.

Clarity of colour is also important, with bright, pure colours being more valuable than lighter or greenish hues. The brightness of an opal's fire or play of colours is graded on a scale of 1 to 5, with level 5 showing exceptionally bright, crisp colour in all lighting situations. Additionally, coverage is crucial. Ideally, the entire crown of the gem should show fire, and the best play of color should be centred. The less area covered, or if the best play of colour is off-centred, the lower the value of the opal.

Body tones also play a role in the colour evaluation. Gemologists use a system to distinguish between black, dark, light, and white opals, ranging from N1 (black) to N9 (white). Stones from N1 to N4 are considered black opals. N5 to N6 are considered dark opals. N7 to N8 are considered light opals, and N9 is considered a white opal.

Clarity

Clarity in opals is evaluated differently than in other gemstones. It refers to the degree of transparency and freedom from inclusions. True inclusions include sand, non-opal spots, healed fractures, chips, and webbing. The impact of these inclusions on clarity and value is directly related to their effect on the appearance of the gem. For example, sand on a black opal or black potch showing through a layer of light opal is considered very unsightly and significantly reduces its value. Fractures will reduce the value of an opal to nearly nothing. While fine black potch webbing is of minor consequence, matrix (the host rock) appearing on the surface has a negative impact on the value.

Carat

While carat weight does affect value, high-carat stones do not command as high a price as mid-size stones. The highest values are given to gems between five and ten carats. Opals have a relatively low density, meaning that even larger sizes can be comfortable to wear.

Cut

The cut of an opal affects its value and appearance. High-quality opals should have a very good to excellent polish. The value of an opal decreases if it is very thin or excessively thick and if the cut is uneven. Like other cabochons, opals should be symmetrical when viewed from the sides and ends. However, symmetry doesn't affect the value of an opal carving. Standard shapes are generally preferred, although some freeform opals with unique shapes can increase value.

Be Aware Of

Enhancements

Opals may be treated to enhance their appearance, and these enhancements should always be disclosed before a sale. Common treatments include oil, wax, or plastic impregnation, which improves the play of colour and disguises crazing, but these treatments often have poor stability. Other treatments include black plastic impregnation, which gives the appearance of a black opal, smoke impregnation to darken the body colour, and aniline dye, silver nitrate, or sugar treatments, which also darken the body colour.

Simulants

Simulants are imitations that are made from plastic or glass that simulate the appearance of opals but are not real opals. Plastic simulants are soft and can be probed with a sharp needle, while glass simulants often contain bubbles and swirl marks, and they also do not phosphoresce.

Synthetics

Synthetic or lab-created opals are real opals, but they are grown in laboratories instead of underground. They undergo the same formation processes, but at an accelerated rate in controlled settings. Synthetic opals may show a strong display of colour, often in a mosaic pattern, and under high magnification, they may show a cellular, scale-like, or chicken wire structure. They also do not phosphoresce.

Final Thoughts

Buying Tips

When buying an opal, it is important to consider the directionality of flashes, as the play of colour can depend on the viewing angle. Ideally, the viewer should see bright, attractive patterns from every direction. It is also important to remember that the "face" of an opal receives the grade. The condition of the back isn't factored into its grade or value. Also, consider that some opals have "character," meaning their appeal is greater than others with the same technical grade.

Consumers may see higher or lower value in an opal than its professional grade may indicate, and prices are subject to negotiation, as long as buyers understand the technical evaluation. When it comes to patterns, pinfire and small-type patterns add less value to opals than broad patterns or large flashes, with distinct patterns like rolling fire, straw, Chinese writing, ribbon, and harlequin being highly prized by collectors. Picture stones, especially if they resemble a known site, are the most valued of all.

Jewellery Care

Opals are delicate and sensitive to shocks and changes in temperature. They are also susceptible to scratching, with a hardness of only 5.5 to 6.5. As such, they require special care and should be stored carefully to avoid scratches. They are not recommended for ring stones unless placed in a protective setting or reserved for occasional wear. It is important to keep them away from extreme light, heat, and dryness to prevent them from cracking. They should be cleaned with warm, soapy water and should not be exposed to acid.

Sources

Cited gemological sources
AuthorityTitleURL
GIAGemological Institute of America, Opal encyclopedia + quality factors + types of opalgia.edu/opal
IGSInternational Gem Society, Opal value, price, and jewelry informationgemsociety.org/article/opal-jewelry-and-gemstone-information
AGTAAmerican Gem Trade Association, Opal (October birthstone) referenceagta.org/gemstones/opal

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between Australian and Ethiopian opal?

Australian opal is stable and needs no special handling. Most Ethiopian Welo opal is hydrophane, meaning it absorbs water. When it gets wet, its play of color can fade and then return as it dries, and repeated soaking can craze it. Welo opal usually costs less than Australian opal of similar look. Keep hydrophane opal away from water.

What is the difference between black and white opal?

It refers to the body tone behind the colour, not the colour itself. Black opal has a dark grey to black body that makes the play of colour appear far more vivid, and it is much rarer and more valuable. White or light opal has a pale body that mutes the same colour display.

What causes an opal's play of color?

Opal is built from microscopic silica spheres. When those spheres are uniform in size and stacked in an orderly grid, they bend and split light into spectral flashes, the effect called play of color. When the spheres are random, the stone is common opal with no flashes. The colors you see shift with the angle of light and viewing.

What is an opal doublet or triplet?

Both are assembled stones, not solid opal. A doublet glues a thin slice of opal onto a dark backing to deepen the color. A triplet adds a clear protective cap on top. They look striking and cost far less than solid opal, but the glued layers can separate if soaked, so they should always be disclosed and priced accordingly.

How can I tell a natural opal from a lab-created or imitation one?

Lab-created opals are real opal grown quickly in a lab. Under magnification they often show a regular columnar or chicken-wire structure and a mosaic pattern that natural opal does not have. Plastic and glass imitations are softer or contain bubbles and swirls. A gemologist confirms the difference, so ask for a report on any significant opal purchase.

How can I tell if opal is real?

Look at how the colour moves. Natural opal shows play of colour in irregular patches that shift as the stone is tilted, while imitations often show a regular, repeating pattern or a distinct columnar structure when viewed from the side. A flat colour layer over a dark backing indicates a doublet or triplet.

What makes one opal more valuable than another?

An opal is judged mainly on color: the range and brightness of its play of color, its body tone, and its pattern. Darker body tones make the colors pop, and red flashes are rarer and more prized than blue or green. Broad patterns beat pinfire, and brightness is scored from 1 to 5, where 5 is the most vivid.

Can I wear an opal ring every day?

Opal suits occasional wear better than a daily ring. At 5.5 to 6.5 on the Mohs scale it scratches easily, and it is sensitive to knocks, heat, and dryness, which can cause fine cracks called crazing. If you wear opal in a ring, choose a protective setting. Clean with warm soapy water only, and avoid heat, acids, and ultrasonic cleaners.

Does opal crack over time?

It can. Crazing is a network of fine surface cracks caused by drying, sudden temperature change or prolonged heat, and once it starts it cannot be reversed. Ethiopian opal is also hydrophane, meaning it absorbs water and can temporarily lose transparency, so keep it away from prolonged soaking.

Can opal go in an ultrasonic cleaner?

No. Opal contains up to twenty percent water, is only 5.5 to 6.5 on the Mohs scale and can craze or crack from vibration, heat, or sudden temperature change. Doublets and triplets are additionally held together with adhesive that water will penetrate. Wipe with a soft damp cloth.

Can opal get wet?

Briefly, but keep it short. Solid opal holds up to twenty percent water already and sudden wetting or drying can craze it. Ethiopian opal is hydrophane, absorbs water readily, and can go temporarily cloudy for days. Doublets and triplets can separate at the glue line, so remove opal before swimming or washing up.

Where does opal come from?

Australia has historically supplied the majority of the world's precious opal, with Lightning Ridge known for black opal and Coober Pedy for white. Ethiopian material from Wollo has become a major source since 2008, and Mexico produces the transparent orange fire opal.

Is opal bad luck to wear?

No. For most of its history opal was seen as a lucky stone. The bad-luck idea traces to a single source, Sir Walter Scott's 1829 novel Anne of Geierstein, where an opal is tied to a tragic death. The book was so popular that European opal sales reportedly fell by half within a year. It is fiction, not folklore.

Which month is opal the birthstone for?

October, shared with tourmaline. Opal has held the October place on the American list since 1912. The superstition that opal is unlucky for those not born in the month has no historical basis before the nineteenth century and is generally traced to a Walter Scott novel of 1829.